The Glassic founding father, Joel, made this comment, which which I copied from the History of Glassics page.

Although never planned as a "clone" copy, and despite various descriptive terms that have appeared over the years, the actual car on which the Glassic /Replicar was based was a 1931 Model A Ford 2-door Deluxe Sports Phaeton. The later cars (Glassic Replicars) shared some appearance features of a ‘32 Victoria in that the hoods were longer and the doors wider than earlier models.

I believe that Ford made a 1030-31 Standard Phaeton and Deluxe Phaeton, both with 4 doors, as well as a 2 door Deluxe Phaeton. I got this from the Body style identification chart in a Model A parts catalog. Ford also made both a Standard and Deluxe Roadster. In general, Ford Phaeton suggests a convertible with a front and back seat, and Roadster suggests a convertible with only a front seat and a trunk or rumble seat.

From an internet technical point of view, I have seen better vendor "websites" however  I highlighted the comment above since that is an valuable vendor feature.

Mirrors - some info can be found in the TECHNICAL CHART (scroll all the way down - look for the green shaded items), fenders steps and rumble seat handles MAY be Model A reproduction parts, (see LINKS for vendors), wiring diagrams don't exist, but FORD wiring diagrams from that year may help with the running gear parts of the wiring.

 I would like to trade steering columns with anyone who would like a floor shifter column. Or I will buy outright if anyone has one for sale.

What is the source of the folding luggage racks for Glassics?
Will Model A reproduction racks fit? Any issues installing one?

Couple more shows in the Panhandle area I'll be at including Cruisin' the Coast in Biloxi: Navarre Beach Car Show, Navarre FL 18 Oct 08 Commando Cruise In, Ft Walton Beach FL 25 Oct 08 Cruisin the Coast, Biloxi MS 5 - 12 Oct 08
 

As I understand it, the battery was moved out of the engine compartment when the A/C and wiper parts needed that space. I will guess that if Joel could have found room under the hood, he would have saved money by not running wires all the way to the back of the car.  In other words, it likely won't be an EASY task.

Four related thoughts

1) Someone told me of a trick where they had added two leads to their battery and run them up under the back seat, or into the side of the back seat area. (rumble seat area in your case) They somehow were protected, but could be exposed when necessary, so that the battery could have jumper cables attached.

2) When I needed a battery jump, AAA once came to me and, when they found out where the battery was, they jumped the car by attaching to the + end at the solenoid, under the hood.

3) I had considered, for a while, the idea of getting a "door" and placing it on the floorboard of the rear passenger seat. (rumble seat floor?) The door was to be from a boat supply store or camper parts store -- an access panel door that has hinges and a frame and is meant to rivet or screw into a camper or boat cabinet. I do not remember if the flat space on the floor was large enough, or flat enough or in the right spot for this to work.

4) My car (and a few others) have had a BATTERY KEY CUTOFF SWITCH installed. In my case, this switch is under the car and a hole under the driver's seat provides a place for the key to go. The lock was on my car for security purposes, (low level security, since all locks seem to use the same key)  but I use it to disconnect the battery. One piece of wire bypasses the switch for the radio / clock.  The part is available at car parts stores, eBay, and other places, and has a big red plastic key that stays in place when the battery is on, and is removed to shut it off.

What have others people done?

The Annex has had no reports of anything fitting our cars. I have an odd setup on car 1254 that may be of interest. I originally thought that someone had taken a rectangle of medium weight aluminum sheet and bent it to fit, rounding off the corners. Then they had made a sort of slipcover from rolled and pleated car upholstery vinyl. It looks fine.

When I checked closely, they had put the slipcover over the original plastic running boards - why, I am not sure. If you make a template, and cut out  the aluminum, a car / boat upholstery shop could likely make covers for them. My feeling is that mine have about an inch or so folded over the 4 edges and sewn to make pockets.

How have others replaced their running boards?

When I 1st got the car I had brake lights and one bright taillight and one very dim one.

One night at a cruise the taillights quit working & I drove home w/my foot on the brake pedal.

The directionals did not work at all. I have 6 wires that were not hooked to anything. I checked them & found no power going to them, so I figure they must be ground wires?  Now I have one directional on the rear & that's all.. All fuses appear to be fine.

Any ideas??  Fred

Patience and logical detective work should help solve this one. Clues are: one dim light to start with (poor ground?) and the wire nut solution (this had been a problem before?). Problems with my car have included, over time, a bad brake light switch, a spot where one taillight bulb socket was hitting the back of the outer housing (the neck actually) and shorting out. Poor grounds or no grounds are a special issue with fiberglass cars.

I would pick an end and start following the line. Perhaps start with the light that used to be dim, and check the ground. I keep a length of wire with alligator clips on each end AND have an old dome light that I made into a test lamp, with long wires attached.

As for the six wires -- I don't think its safe to assume they are ALL ground wires. Only one should have been needed. My car, for example, has a wire for backup lights, but no backup lights.

My own first step would be to take apart that dim taillight and look for shorts, or bad connections.

 A 12 volt tester - (looks like a small ice-pick with a light inside and a test wire) might be a good, low cost investment.

 I backed into a gate and put a crack in the rear fender. Since I was going to have it fixed anyway, I decided to bob the rear fenders about 3", remove the front fender wells, and remove all the white rubber strips on the running boards. I have been reading about a couple people who have had trouble with foot room.

I am 6'1' and can hardly step on the brake without crunching my left foot. With me it is the width of the foot well, not the length. I am having the left side of the foot well box cut out and widened 2-3'. Right now my left foot has to sit on the dimmer switch all the time.

There also has been mention of people interested in moving the battery. Since the pictures of my car were taken, I have removed the hood sides, which made the battery look really bad. I made a new battery holder out of angle iron from an old bed, and bolted it directly to the firewall, as high up as possible, directly above where it originally sat.

I know that MANY of us hope Rick will share some pictures of these projects!

REPLY - From Dennis, car 189

My dimmer is located just under the dash all the way to the left. Makes it simple to push with my hand and have the extra room on the floor board. I also had my brake pedal cut off the arm rotated 90 degrees and re-welded to allow more foot on the pedal. Worked out real nice. I'm '6 '2 and the only issue I have is my head is a little above my windshield...(Dennis replied to my question by saying that the switch appeared to have been under the dash originally)

Some info can be found on the Annex comprehensive A-Z topic index (main page menu item # 1)  "mirrors"

REPLY - From Dennis, car 189

SWAN NECK MIRRORS

I found these on e-bay and is most likely what I will go with. I like the look and they stick up high enough where you can actually 'see' out of them. I found them at Yearwood (note, the "mirrors" page for Yearwood showed up blank, you may have to call them ) for $39.00 so that may save a little more but here is the link and what they look like... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHROME-HOT-ROD-SWAN-NECK-MIRRORS-4-EXTERIOR-MIRRORS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33649QQihZ019QQitemZ290212684667QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Since the eBay listing will likely disappear at some point, here is the picture from the listing.
It was $58 + $10 postage by a vendor named
GOODFELLAS ROD AND CUSTOM - that is a link to his eBay store as of 3/2008

Update: While updating the new "technical section" on the website, I came across this link http://www.glassicannex.org/cartales.htm#12-33 where he added a power booster to his brakes. That may help.

Taillight from car # 771

A large number of people have changed their VW taillights to reproduction Model A lights.

Model A lights produce much poorer rear lighting that the VW lights, but sure look better. I do know that there is a rather large hole that needs to be fiberglassed in when the VW lights are removed, (see THIS - scroll down for pics) and care must be taken to not mount the Model A taillight brackets too high or too low on the fender.

Some Model A parts catalogs that have on-line versions can be found on the LINKS page.

Joel, the builder, said:

.... Up until July of 72 we were using GROTE tail lights, taking them apart and having the shell chromed....After we sold out (When Glassic was under different ownership for a while) I don't know what they could have been using 

As a followup, I asked Joel "Wouldn't it have been easier to use Model A reproduction lights back at that time? He replied: We couldn't use reproduction Model A lights... Didn't meet federal DOT specs, so we did the next bet thing...get close (in appearance) but stay "legal"....

The Annexmaster had never heard of GROTE, but did a Google and look what I found: This page has a 4 inch un-chromed version that maybe a match.

http://www.grote.com/prodcat/C.html  see: 4" Steel, Two-Stud Mount, Combination Lamp

REPLY

Regarding looking for tail lights try Speedwaymotors web site they carry all sorts of stuff. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/m/433_Street-Rod-Taillights-Model-A-T-40-Ford-50-Pontiac.html?page=1

Is there a source for the teardrop shaped front
blinkers? I don't know if the later cars had them. if
there isn't a source, maybe someone would be willing
to have a mold made from theirs so copies can be made?
(I would be willing to do it, but mine are long gone)

use the MESSAGE BOARD FORM to reply

Bill - who removed his said :

Dennis, who had also removed his, suggested that truck running lights make a good, more modern substitute, and look better also. Here is an eBay link to some that he bought - other truck running lights might also work well.
(at some point that link will become out of date) - You can search eBay for any combination of these words:

Amber Cab Roof Truck Semi Clearance Marker Running Lights  

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=110225398257&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=001

2/24/08 -- Stacey responds to the idea of newer truck lights:

I have been looking at truck lights, but I
did like the ones that were on the car. the others
seem too large, and the orange ones don't look right
to me either. I have time, hopefully something will
come up.

On 2/27/08 Dennis sent this picture - his original lights (on the RIGHT) and what he was going to
replace them with (left) until he found a different style

Below are the lights that Dennis ended up with.

And the picture below is the clear type that Stacey is looking for. (This example is from car #320)

I thought I had done a better job of recording this info. Look at the bottom of the page on car 1106 regarding the AOD trans. swap. I MUST follow up and get this into the index and get better info.    Don

http://www.glassicannex.org/1106/1106.htm

click the picture for a larger view. Use your browser back arrow to return to this page.

A number of hot rod places have battery boxes that can be welded on under the car. The newer Replicars (76 onward) have them on the inside of the passenger side rail, in the rear. This, of course makes for a royal pain to service the battery. You mentioned on the phone that the battery had been moved due to no space under the hood since the car had no riser on the carb for the air cleaner. I may still have mine and can check after the first of the year. If you can get the battery back under the hood, that might be the best way to go.

click the picture for a larger view. Use your browser back arrow to return to this page.

I was going to attempt to split the hood on car 885 this winter but if I could locate one that someone isn't using  it would save me a lot of trouble and time. I saw the procedure that some one had done on theirs, not too bad but still a lot of work  any info available I would appreciate.    Sid

Yep, the Replicars had split hoods (except for the earliest 1976's) and the Glassics did not. There were a lot of changes with Replicars, so it is not a sure thing that a Replicars hood would fit, even if you COULD find one. Here are my measurements of my 1978 split hood. If a Glassic owner would send me the measurements of THEIR hood, we will all know if they can be swapped.

Measurements are approx. Front 13 1/8" for each half or 26 1/4" plus a little for the hinge. Rear - (windshield end) 21 3/8" each side or 42 3/4" total plus a little for the hinge. Front to back in the center 34 3/8 inches  Front to back at the side, where the latches are 35 1/2"

Dave, car 1279, is in the process of fixing his split hood so that the sides are hinged also and the latches will be at the bottom, on the fenders like a real Model A. Photos will be posted when he is finished.

How neat is THIS? Great find, Ron & Diana. Ho ho ho!

The card company's page with this card on it or you can search their website for "christmas car antique"

The short of it is, I manage to get a "non-modified" automobile policy which was $100.00 cheaper on the year.

Now 6 mos. later they want to change it to "modified" and raise it. Is there a Collector Car Insurance Company that doesn't look at the Glassic as "modified"?

Louis is a former Glassic owner and a friend of the website. Louis is also an Allstate agent. I passed this question on to him, and his reply appears below:

I write through Hagerty and they rated both the Shay and Glassic's as modified which as the person with the question said is more expensive.    I am told that Grundy has the best rate of the collector car companies.     State Farm has also gone through their book and re-rated everything that was not "bone stock" to modified according to a friend of mine.  I suggest he try Grundy and report back to you his finding.    Louis

This appears in keeping with the Annexmaster's feeling that insurance companies have a motto of: "Charge as much as you can, and pay out as little as you can."

Well I installed my new billet grill insert today and it went rather smoothly

     
NOTE: Contact Mike if you are interested in one of these. My 1978 Replicar has a different shape to the shell opening. Be sure to verify your measurements before ordering one. I asked Mike about the shipping weight and cost for one of these - his answer:

As for the weight it is not too bad being made of billet aluminum it weighed around 10 pounds, as for the cost it is around $350.00.  Yes I realize that the later model Glassics have a slightly different size grill shell and I can have it made any dimension that is given to me. Mine measured 17" wide by 17.5" high and I had the mounting tabs welded on 3" from the top and bottom of the grill and it mounted right up to the extension of the radiator perfectly with tinnerman clips on the mounting tabs. I did have to remove the engine sides to remove the grill shell for installation but I have done that before so it wasn't too bad.  If anyone is interested in one I would be more than happy to help them out!

Some info from Joel, the builder appears HERE. Also, a general article on FINDING PARTS

. I also need to know how to repair the driver side door that doesn't fully close. If anyone can help, please let me know. I'd be most appreciative.   -- My own car has a little looseness when the doors are closed, and in THAT case it is because the weatherstripping was not replaced when the car was painted. I never got around to replacing it, but know that, in Florida anyhow, the stick-on type tends to melt and get gooey. When I DO replace it, I will get a universal door weatherseal and some of that black glue from the car store.

Later Cy elaborated on his door problem:
My door problem is the drivers side door and the door doesn't fully close - it just catches on the first latch and is loose and rattles when driving.

I don't know if it applies to your case, Cy, but I recall with my dad's 1955 Chevy that the door latch would sometimes get "out of whack" and the door wouldn't latch. At the time I recall "fiddling" with the latch (the star shaped gear on the door) using pliers to crank in forwards or backwards, until it finally clicked and then was in the right position to latch fully.

 I also remember that it took some doing to get it to work, and when it finally did get into the right position, I never quite knew HOW I had done it. So, try turning that star knob a click forward (or maybe backward) with pliers - with or without pushing the door button on the outside at the same time.  Experiment around.

Also, and I don't know if it has anything to do with the problem, but pulling the inside handle in the opposite direction for opening, causes the outside handle to lock. Not much use for that with no windows.

  THANKS IN ADVANCE.        CY, FROM NEW JERSEY

Tom Scott
Denham Springs, LA 70706

Home Phone: 225-664-5103

Email: lenaandtom@bellsouth.net

I tried long-tube headers on my 78, and surprisingly, they cleared the frame and steering, but hit the transmission housing on the passenger side. The only thing I could figure is that the original Mustang (which was an automatic) may not have had the C-4 transmission. Something to keep in mind. Buying new, with a return policy, may be the way to go.

Also, my buddy (car 1279 and a long-time hot rodder) prefers NOT to use headers because they are noisy and throw a lot of heat under the hood (and into the passenger compartment.)

These are the moldings that go on the running boards and on the rear of the car. there are 4 on each running board that have a channel that rivets on and then the molding snaps into a groove in the channel.

I found a place in San Diego that has what they call a 5/8 inch molding insert and I ordered this since that's what I thought we had but it turns out these people measure the back side of the channel instead of the molding itself.

 If there is anybody that has done a restoration on a Glassic that might know it would be a big help.
 

My gut feeling is that '72 to '74 were easy years to up-size the rear wheels. If it were ME, I would check the photo albums for a look that I liked, jot down the car # and try to contact the owner (from the owners list) for specifics.

Scout parts in a '74? I would have expected Ford parts by then.

My experience with my '78 may help (see index on the website -fuel sending unit). Think simple at first, such as a loose or disconnected wire or gruond. A Bronco sending unit should still be good on this year - I think.

From Frederick, 4/2/07: A few months ago I purchased a 1962 Willys wagon. The hood latches look the same as the ones on my Glassic #600. Just another place to look

Nothing that I know of fits. I have heard of people cutting down 1931 Stainless Steel shells (making them about 4 inches shorter), but have also had reports that the shape of the hood is different from a real Model A shell. Don't throw out your old Glassic shell!--  I hope others have suggestions. A number of people have installed '32 shells, which, I believe, also have to be made shorter and also have issues with the curve of the top matching the hood.

I put 1934 ford handles on car # 218 they fit great I just had to cut the shaft down a little.   Mike

I would look at International Scout handles first, since the early Glassics were closely connected with Internationals.  I looked for handles to match my 1978, by checking pictures of all sorts of '70s Ford products (like on eBay, etc.) and never did find ones that looked like my 78.  Anyone with leads on any year outside door handles, please share your info.

;There is no top or top frame! Does anyone have pics or drawings or dimensions?
If anyone sends this info or pics to GlassicAnnex@aol.com, I will post it on the website. Some people have built non-folding frames from conduit pipe. A tonneau cover is also an interim solution.

The floor shifter is wobbly, is it a Mustang unit and if so what year?

Has any body got info re. seatbelt attachment?

How about a catch or retainer for the rumble seat, I don't want to squash the kids at the first stop!

Are their headers that fit the 302?
More than one person has suggested that headers will add heat to the engine compartment and in the car, as well as noise. Having had a set that bolted up fine but ended up hitting the transmission, the best idea is to buy them were you can return them if they don't clear the frame etc.

Does anybody have details about the hood side panels, mine are missing!?
Unless someone has a pair they don't want, you may have to borrow a set as a pattern and have them made out of sheet metal. Look at pictures on the Annex and notice the "tumor" or bulge for, I guess, the alternator on one side.

Does anybody know what happened to Oscar, the guy who built a top at Asbury Auto Tops ? Thanx  Doug

 From the Annexmaster:  Probably not. Since the records were lost in a flood after the company closed, we likely will never know exactly how many cars were made, let alone what body style. The best we can do is extract from the cars that are registered on the site. We now have 70% Phaetons and 30% Roadsters on the list.  Expanding that to our estimated 1600 or so total cars, we can guess that about 450  were Roadsters and around 1150 were Phaetons. A coupe and a couple of pickup trucks were in there too.

Joel, the builder, had reported that real Model A lightbars did NOT match Glassics. Your measurement should come from an earlier Glassic rather than a Replicar since they may be different.  Also, be sure to test the ANGLE of the attaching mounts as well as the length needed since the fender shapes may be different than a real Model A.

Thanks for the help in advance,

DJ…

He also asks:   Is there a nicer steering wheel that one can buy to replace the existing one that looks like a pinto steering wheel? Something that looks from the 30, 40 era that would replace only the top part.