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Spark plug firing order Ford 302 - While it is not usual for me to post stuff that is
easily found elsewhere on the internet
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Fuel line clogs up - In December, 2009, Elmer Mack shared the following:
....when I received my car last week from the seller, I had a hard
time starting it, and then keep it running after @ 1-2
minutes.........We used starting fluid and that partially helped, but
the engine died after 1-2 minutes of perfect running...
.......The problem was a small rubber hose/gasoline line coming out of the fuel tank was old/weak/rotten and it was collapsing when the fuel pump sucked the gas out of it. Once this rubber gas hose was replaced the car ran like a top...........You may want to post this info.. This should serve as a reminder -- ANY rubber parts are subject to deterioration over time and, if they have not already been replaced on your car, they should be -- rubber brake lines, fuel line, hoses, belts -- and TIRES! While these items may look ok on the outside, if they are old, they go bad on the inside. sludge in gas tank In August, 2010, I got this info from Ross, car 329 Do you know of anyone that has had problems with their fiberglass gas tanks? Here's what has happened to my Roadster: It began starting hard and skipping badly and I thought it was an electrical problem. All electrical components were replaced and still the problem was not resolved. The repair shop said it needed a valve job and new push rods. The valves were sticking because the gas tank was deteriorated inside and sending some kind of gunk with the fuel into the engine. You could actually scrape gunk off the bottom of the tank. It's being repaired now and I was wondering if this has been a problem for anyone else.
ANNEXMASTER REPLY:
As for the gas sludge problem, I have not heard of it with Glassics any more than the general issue of gas getting all cruddy over the years that many collector cars sit around. Some Glassic owners have reported the problem, not so much about the gas tanks but the old gas. Several have had their gas tank "cleaned" and coated with some stuff -- just an item that they mention when describing their cars.
I had not heard of the gunk requiring engine work (there are magic
chemical products at the car stores to clean sludge from engine parts)
but have heard of it clogging up the gas lines and so forth.
Replacement reproduction gas tanks should be available for most
years of Glassics if you want to go that route, or, I think, radiator
shops will clean and "coat them".
So, in summary, I have not heard of any issues tied to fiberglass
or plastic tanks, but have heard of rust and sludge both in Glassics
,and other cars that are old and have sat around a lot.
Please let me know how you end up solving the problem so I can post
your solution.
And Ross' solution: I ended up having a valve job and a new gas tank installed. The valves were way beyond just using a gas additive. The mechanic showed me the problem and how hard it was to free up the old valves. Also, the gas tank was so badly coated with gunk on the bottom you could scrape it off with a screwdriver, much of which was ending up in the engine, causing the problem. All is fine now and my "Toy" runs like a top. PS -- you can Google ANY
questions - there are articles and videos
1967 ignition parts fit a 1971 Ponce, car #432 reported in May, 2008: .....I went to two parts places (one is NAPA) for cap, points, rotor and condenser. The points and cap match up to a '67 engine. I had them look at '71 and they weren't even close. Here are parts that worked in car 432: For reference, the numbers on his engine are:
NAPA part numbers :
This is reported in the spirit of sharing clues. It is unclear how 1967 parts would be in a 1971, but here is his experience in case it is helpful. The Annexmaster saw an early Glassic with a TOYOTA drive train, installed by a junk yard owner - so anything is possible in a Glassic after all these years. |
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Leaky carb on my 1973 The Annexmaster's unrestored 1973 - car 689, was leaking a lot of gas from the carb to the engine block. Those of you who know this website know that my mechanical know-how is pretty bad, but I was able to figure out enough to stop the leak. The gas seemed to be coming from what turned out to be the accelerator pump (I don't know what that is, or what it does), and research on the web suggested that the diaphragm inside that item often went bad.
The accelerator pump is the item in the front of the carb, held on with 4 small bolts.
The yellow arrow shows that there is a vacuum line that is supposed to operate that pump, and in my case it is connected to nothing. I am guessing that when there is a pull on the engine during heavy acceleration, that pump adds extra gas to the carb. The circled item is the accelerator pump. You can see 3 of the 4 bolts that hold the cover on. -- behind that cover is a square gasket, with a round metal plate floating on a rubber bladder. My od one did not appear to have any hole or tear, but replacing it sure stopped the leak. I went to the local NAPA store and they acted like they had a replacement diaphragm part, but I did not pursue the purchase then. The next day I looked on-line and found the following info. The carb is likely a Motorcraft 2100. The metal tag on my car, above the accelerator pump says Motrocraft D30F EA, and the next line says A 2L 28. The D is for 1970 to 1980, the 3 after the D is for the year 3, as in 73. The 0F and EA, I think are specific carb configurations. When I went to another parts store, they asked what type of car -- together we guessed F-100 since, the guy said that was what vehicle likely had a 2 barrel carb. This store did not have a diaphragm part, but had a whole carb re-build kit. Since the kit was $13 I got it. This "Fuel system repair kit" said Fuel injection, which of course our cars are not. BUT, turn the box over and it says Carburetion. This kit seems to be a one-size fits all. The kit is full of mostly gaskets and two instruction sheets -- one of which was for the 2100 carb. Since I did not want at all to take the carb off the car, the idea of a re-build was out of the question. So I decided to try to just replace the diaphragm and see what happened. There is also a check valve that should be replaced, but the instructions for that seemed a bit more that I wanted to fool with. I figured I could do that later on if necessary. PARTS NUMBERS The Ford truck enthusiasts website provided this info, which I did not end up using, but which should be valid: D4AZ-9A586-A carb overhaul kit. -- fits all 62-74 2100 series 2 barrel carbs or, just get the parts
you want -- C4AZ-98559-A pump diaphragm (Motorcraft CM-463) As it turned out, I only used the one part, the diaphragm, from the overhaul kit, and the leak stopped so I am happy. The Ford Truck site also warned that there is a spring behind those 4 bolts, so when you remove the cover, watch out, or the spring will pop out onto the floor. The arm connected to the cover on the left upper corner of the yellow, is spring loaded also and that spring has to be put back behind the arm when replacing the cover. Before taking the cover off, you can see how the vaccuum (if it is connected to anything) will pull the plunger in, which moves the spring loaded arm, etc. The leg of the spring reaches behind the lower arm to keep tension on the whole thing. That little spring is hidden behind the upper left corner of the yellow outlined box in the picture above. This is not mechanic quality info, but does show that even a rookie might be able to stop a leak. |
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Dual Exhaust setup added to a 1978 In March, 2009, John, car 1254 reported:
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